If the compressor doesn't work, it's bad. If I leave it off for some time it works again for half hour. April 2013
Do not pull on the wire itself, but on the attachment clip with a needle nose pliers. Replacing the overload protector takes only a few minutes and can be done by the homeowner. No matter how durable it is. The weird thing is, the compressor seems to run for the 1-2 seconds before the overload trips, so not sure why the run winding would be drawing 15A. Reason perhaps it's used almost 10 years and previous camp management has no preventive a/c maintenance until it's total breakdown. This critically important part starts the cycle of refrigeration by doing just what its name states -- it compresses the coolant into a smaller volume. First of all off the refrigerator and plug out the refrigerator supply plug from the outlet, or switch off the double pole circuit breaker from which the refrigerator supply plug controlled. The compressor is the reason why refrigerators feel hot in the back. I really appreciate this but how do I now figure it out if it still insist tripping for overload. When it works the air is cold no strange noises and everything works perfect. The coils are not open or shorted to each other or shorted to ground. When a compressor is tripping and very hot the term used is: thermal overload. The sensing device, of a bimetal strip made of two metals bonded together, expands in overload conditions to eventually trip a mechanical device. The site may not work properly if you don't, If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit, Press J to jump to the feed. This causes the compressor to have to start while the refrigerant tubes have not had their pressure equalized. Also the overload relay itself could fail. March 2013 Oh it will run but will end up just like what happened, runs a little higher amps and over time it sits and gradually cooks that varnish away then hmmmm click! Hi Guys, looking for some help with a fridge compressor. Burton holds a B.S. I don't know what all you have, but my guess is that the refrigerator compressor is too small to handle the load and is being overworked. A compressor on thermal overload could eventually be a shorted compressor. There are two usual suspects. When people hear the refrigerator working, what they are hearing is the motor powering the compressor. Build a homemade air compressor out of a fridge compressor.
It comes on runs, shuts off and then tries to restart in under 5 minutes. A couple nights ago, I noticed that my fridge was clicking loudly whenever the compressor would kick on (and then back off). In my frustration, I decided to bypass the overload for a few seconds to see what would happen (I know I know, but I have not much left to lose).
It just seems so strange that the fridge would run for over a year in that condition without having any issue, especially the overload issue, but I can't think of a better explanation for why the resistance doesn't add up. The overload protector sits near the condenser by the current start relay and ensures the condenser does not overheat while working. The overload protector has a wire running from it directly to the compressor, which makes it easy to identify. Hi there! The compressor is normally near the rear floor of the refrigerator. There is a huge difference between a refrigerator and a home air conditioner and compressors are not necessarily compatible. This article is very usefull specially for a diter like me. You are now sweaty, beat, but probably feel pretty darn good for how hard you just worked. I'm measuring 15 amps of current draw through the compressor, which isn't dropping after 1-2 seconds. Especially when temperature setting is always in high cool or supercool for a long time and doors kept open and close. This 15 amps is of course not normal here, and tripping the overload. It's about the only explanation I can think of for having an almost equal start and run, but a lower resistance for start + run. Of course I'm hoping it isn't the compressor, but at some point everything else will be ruled out. He has managed radio stations, TV studios and newspapers, and was the chief fundraiser for Taltree Arboretum. Could it be a bad thermal resistance or is my compressor leaving me? If your compressor feels like it is constantly trying to start and can not start it is time to call a technician to diagnose what is causing this. Thanks for this very helpful post about compressor!). There are many parts inside the box that must work together smoothly in order to keep the inside air at the desired temperature. My AC starts and works for half an hour then the compressor stop while the fan keeps working. Strangely, resistance does NOT add up, with common to start and common to run both about 8-9 ohms, and between start and run at 6 ohms. This is easy to access but should only be done with the unit unplugged from the wall. A refrigerator is one of the hardest working appliances in the home.
The compressor seems to run, but shakes a bit, then a bit more, and may have locked up/kicked off just before I unplugged it. As it does its job, it generates a great deal of heat. The start coil gets 230V (Europe) briefly, then drops out, and the run coil gets 230V constantly once the first start attempt is made. Otherwise known as a vapor pump, the compressor then sends the coolant out the discharge line and to the condenser. Therefore always ensure the motor thermal protector has not opened. The overload protector sits near the condenser by the current start relay and ensures the condenser does not overheat while working. November 2012 The coils are not open or shorted to each other or shorted to ground. Education makes people to determine the possible earnings so that they can continue. 2. I'd say you've lost your start windings (burnt out somewhere along the windings, causing the windings to short together). I've measured voltage from common to both run and start windings during "startup". This 15 amps is of course not normal here, and tripping the overload. So, now it’s time to replenish that body and treat it nicely. Since then, I've unplugged it, and it's at room temp.
He is a 26-year veteran of the U.S. Navy/Navy Reserves and the Navy Seabees. As it does its job, it generates a great deal of heat. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. I've pulled the PTC and measured the resistance over a range of temperatures. Wow this is an useful tip. Give us a call if you have any questions: 239-596-5855.
Jones Air Conditioning: (239) 596-5855 Naples, Bonita Springs, Marco Island 24 Hour Air Conditioning Service, Repair & Replacements. Don't run the new one on an extension cord either! October 2012 There are two usual suspects. September 2013 I know this is not typical but when I first got the fridge (used) over a year ago, I measured the same resistance values, and it's been running for over a year. Not within 5%, but not far outside either and could be at least partly based on the measurement. Replace the wires into their clips and the new unit is ready to go.
Any advice about this will surely help me to fix this problem. February 2013 I know that it's the compressors thermal that is tripping but why ? The outside coil is dirty or folded over so that the system has trouble rejecting heat, this causes the compressor to have to work harder and hence get warmer. Lockers and cabinets obstructed the airflow which lessen it's efficiency. So i change it with a non detergent air compressor oil. The lid is usually held on with a clip that is popped off with a screwdriver. Buy a Supco "3n1 Starter" and install that on the compressor. May 2013 The resistance drops from 12 to 10 ohms as it first heats up and then the resistance rises quickly (this appears to be correct based on PTC temp/resistance charts).
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